Nyola Yangti

The Nyola Yangti river flows down from the Phanchuli glacier between the Dugtu and Dantu villages of Uttarakhand.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there. I rode down from Nainital to Darma Valley in the autumn of 2019 and spent two days at a home stay in Dantu. The villages were mostly empty with the inhabitants on their way down to Jauljibi to camp for winter.

This picture was taken early in the morning when I woke in the bitter cold to watch the run rise on the peaks. For months I had visualized this image – a dark valley shadowed by towering snow capped peaks and a glistening river meandering through the center. The picture is a double exposure with the first exposed for the mountain peaks and other for the river.

Here is a color version of the same: (https://lslightpaintings.files.wordpress.com/2024/04/bikeride_dharmavalley_849x2400.jpg)

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/4 | 1/400s | ISO200
Date: Oct 19, 2019 | 0620

Deserted Beauty

Flowers grow with abandon amidst deserted houses at Dantu Village in Darma Valley, Uttarakhand.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there.

Traditionally the villagers from the villages of Dantu and Dugtu in Darma Valley, migrates to Jauljibi in winter months along with their cattle. Once summer arrives, they go back to higher pastures for cattle to graze. However, over time due to migration of younger generation to cities, many never go back to their ancestral houses in native villages.

The houses in villages are locked and barred. And slowly nature is taking over. Few houses were occupied and most had younger generation studying or working in Pithoragarh/Haldawni/Delhi. The elders lament that they will never come back.

Denu, who walked me around that afternoon, had fond memories of this yard. Years ago, a teacher lived in this house. During summers, every afternoon he would gather a few village kids to tell them stories. A story he remembered was a man unjustly imprisoned in an island prison escapes posing as a dead body and takes revenge. Sounded so much like the “Count of Monte Cristo”. Its interesting how good stories have a way to travel around.

This picture was taken when Denu and I sat down in this yard. I was admiring the flowers against the abandoned house, while he told me of the stories he heard sitting in this yard. Sitting there I made memories of his memories.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/5 | 1/50s | ISO200
Date: Oct 17, 2019 | 1551

Herding Sheep

Sheep getting herded together to be taken out for grazing in the mountains.

The eastern side of Panchachuli, i.e., Darma Valley is still untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there. The few villages in the area are remote and most residents depart for lower grounds in winter due to the harsh climate.

This picture was taken at the village house in Dantu where I spent two nights. During the day I hung around the village observing the few people going on with their difficult daily life. I even tried to help gathering the sheep, but probably got in the way of their work.

The person bent down in the back is the owner, and the young girl in the front is his eldest daughter. She was the one mostly in-charge of the sheep.

Technical details: Pen-F + 9-18mm | F/14 | 1/125s | ISO200
Date: Oct 18, 2019 | 0947

Walking Tall

An old women walks alone in the remote Village of Dantu in the Darma Valley.

There are a few small villages in Darma Valley. Most are alike with a cluster of two storied huts with fields surrounding the village. The massive peaks of Panchachuli arise above all in the west, shadowing everything in the vicinity.

This picture was taken during a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. On the day after I arrived, I idled around the village, taking in the serenity and watching the few people of the village go about their daily work. The rest had gone down to Jauljibi for voting in panchayat elections.

This picture was taken during my morning walk around the mostly empty village. This lady was the only one in her house. After this picture, she sat down nearby asking about me, family and what I was doing there. Later she even made a cup of tea for me from goat milk.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/4.9 | 1/800s | ISO200
Date: Oct 18, 2019 | 0903

Burden

An old woman carrying the burden of fodder for feeding the livestock, probably in preparation for upcoming winter.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there.

In the hills, women do most of the work; be it cooking, taking care of cattle or working in the fields. Driving out there one often see women of all ages climbing up and down the hillside collecting fodder for the livestock. They then make a huge bundle of grass and carry it for miles to their homes. This helps feed the livestock at home who otherwise would need to be taken out for grazing exposing them to predators.

This picture was taken when I was returning from the Darma valley. The road had been recently cut, making it easier for locals. I had stopped after a stretch of rough riding for a butt break and to warm myself in the autumn sun. Far down the road this woman turned a corner and walked up the slope carrying a heavy load of grass on her back reflecting a tough life in a tough terrain.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/4 | 1/1250s | ISO200
Date: Oct 19, 2019 | 0928

Cold

Cold of the night personified in the cool white and blue of snow and night.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there.

This picture was taken on a cold night in the 2nd half of October. I wanted to capture some stars and and the Panchachuli peaks in the light of the night. I stepped out and walked a little further away from the village I was staying. The night was cold and once the wind started blowing it was not a good spot to be in. The cool blue and white of the picture so truly reflects how cold I was feeling at that time. Even now when I see this pictures, it makes me relive that cold night.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/3.2 | 15s | ISO400
Date: Oct 17, 2019 | 2112

Milky Way

First glows of the moon on the Panchachuli Peaks as the Milky Way stretched across the night sky.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there.

This picture was taken during a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. I wasn’t expecting to see the Milky Way and was not prepared with low light lenses. As luck would have it, the band of Milky Way stretched just above the peaks of Panchachuli. And as the moon started rising, the Lunar alepenglow illuminated the top of the peak rendering them bright orange.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/2.8 | 60s | ISO800
Date: Oct 18, 2019 | 2042

Morning Light

Reflected sunlight lighten up the Panchachuli Peaks early in the morning while the clouds drift away.

Most people only get a view of Panchachuli from the western side i.e. Munsyari/Kausani/Choukori and similar hill stations. The eastern side, i.e., Darma Valley is untouched territory mostly for hiking parties. Till recently there was no road and it required a multi day trek from Tawaghat to get there.

This picture is a 60sec exposure taken early in the morning when the valley was completely dark. The peaks had just started glowing up. The long exposure meant cloud moment which led to the glow lines above the peaks.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/2.8 | 60s | ISO200
Date: Oct 19, 2019 | 0536

Moonset

Moon sets over the Panchachuli Mountains while the rising sun spreads its glow over the top peaks.

There are a few small villages in Darma Valley. From the village of Dantu, one gets a grand view of the Panchachuli Peaks. The peaks overshadow everything else around the village.

This picture was taken during a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. On the day I was leaving, the skies cleared up giving me a beautiful view of the peaks. The moon was just setting high in the sky soon to disappear under the bright sunlight.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/4 | 1/320s | ISO200
Date: Oct 19, 2019 | 0618

Cascades

A stream of water cascades down amidst the trees turning yellow and orange in Darma valley Uttarakhand.

The stretch from Tawaghat to Darma valley is a newly cut road yet to be tarred. Bridges are still under construction and water crossing are numerous. During autumn as the leaves turn yellow, the landscape is mesmerizing with all shades or color.

This picture was taken during a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. Few Km before Dugtu, this stream emerged out of a narrow ravine. Cascading over the boulders strewn around a thicket of trees with yellow leaves, the stream tumbled down to join the river below.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/22 | 1/4s | ISO80
Date: Oct 17, 2019 | 1325

Ride travelog: https://lokeshshah.wordpress.com/2019/12/07/kumaon-wanderings-darma-valley-day-1/

Rider’s Nirvana

Panchachuli Peaks tower above the road at Darma valley in remote mountains of Uttarakhand.

Just below the Dantu Village, the unpaved road turns west and faces the mighty peaks. For half a Km, one heads straight towards the peaks before plunging into a river crossing. This is the kind of stretch for which one endures the most bone jarring rides – a moment of bliss.

This picture was taken while I was returning from a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. On the day of return the morning was clear and the Panchachuli Peaks presented themselves in full glory.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/4 | 1/250s | ISO200
Date: Oct 19, 2019 | 0712

Ride travelog: https://lokeshshah.wordpress.com/2019/12/07/kumaon-wanderings-darma-valley-day-1/

Shadow of Panchachuli

A village house at Dantu under the patronage of Panchachuli Peaks in Darma valley Uttarakhand.

There are a few small villages in Darma Valley. Most are alike with a cluster of two storied huts with fields surrounding the village. The massive peaks of Panchachuli arise above all in the west, shadowing everything in the vicinity.

This picture was taken during a bike ride I did in 2019 to Darma valley and spent two night at Dantu Village. On the day after I arrived, I idled around the village, taking in the serenity and watching the few people of the village go about their daily work. The rest had gone down to Jauljibi for voting in panchayat elections.

This picture shows the hut I slept in. The door face east and get bright morning sun. Sitting on the verandah one feels the massiveness and aura of the Panchachuli peaks towering above.

Technical details: Pen-F + 12-40mm | F/14 | 1/125s | ISO200
Date: Oct 18, 2019 | 0910

Ride travelog: https://lokeshshah.wordpress.com/2019/12/07/kumaon-wanderings-darma-valley-day-1/